Friday, October 21, 2011

Holiday Numero Dos

I will give you a quick run down of what I did over holiday 2 because it was hilarious and actually very educational. It was completely different than my first vacation which was luxurious; this trip I camped and slept outside. The last day of school was report card day. Except this was no normal report card day; I was traumatized. I ended up having to act as a homeroom teacher to a grade 9 class because their teacher left at the the beginning of the term and no one replaced him. I had to do all of the calculations and create all the report cards, which was fine. The horrible part is on the last day we had assembly to hand out the report cards. I had to announce the top five learners in the class and the BOTTOM five learners of the class. They forced the bottom five learners to walk in front of the entire student population and all of the teachers to come get their report cards. If they did not come fast enough, the teachers continually repeated their name until they came to the front. Being a homeroom teacher, I was horrified because I had to announce the names in my class. They think that humiliation will teach the learners that they need to study harder. Which may be true, but is damaging. And then on top of it, the bottom five learners from each class get kicked out of the hostel.
Then vacation began. I spent the weekend with Bernie and Bret and our friend from the south Samiyah. On Monday we picked up a rental car and headed out to Opuwo. I loved it there. It was so beautiful and so culturally diverse. I honestly forgot I was in Namibia. I wont bore anyone with the details of each tribes that live there. But long story short when the Afrikaaner people (the whites) and the Germans arrived in Namibia they moved majority of the tribes native to Namibia above the red line (which is where I live). It basically is a racial divider. I live among the Oshiwambo people who are a Bantu tribe (meaning that they migrated from the North, more than likely Angola). In Opuwo, there are four main tribes the Himba, the Themba (sp?), the Herero, and the Damara. Most of these groups migrated from South Africa at one point and the Himba are native to Namibia. All in all, this area has become a safe haven for the traditional tribes of Namibia. People are free to dress (or not dress lol) as they please. Some people have adapted to modern ways and no longer where the traditional clothes, though. It felt like I took a trip back to traditional Africa with huts and naked people included. lol.
When we arrived we stop at a Country Lodge Hotel for a sundowner which is pretty much targeted for white tourists. It was gorgeous, so luxurious. It had a pool overlooking the mountains. It was great. We proceeded to go to a local bar to mingle with the locals which is where we met our Himba friends...visit my profile picture on facebook. It was so cool!! They wear paint made of ochre butter and herbs all over their bodies to protect their skin from the sun. The paint has a distinct smell and turns their skin a shade of burnt red. It is very hard to get out of clothes. They painted my face and arms. They grabbed the boys' butts and the girls' boobs. We taught them how to take pictures. They stole our beers and even got a little tipsy. They were a hoot. They wear a ton of different jewelry and each piece symbolically means something i.e. you take a necklace off when your father dies or you add a different necklace when your mother dies. We spent a day there and then moved onto Epupa Falls.
Epupa Falls is a waterfall that starts in the Angolan mountains and then eventually flows out into the Atlantic Ocean. The river is the border between Namibia and Angola. This was gorgeous and very scary. It was huge. One misstep and you could easily be dead. One day we went rafting down the river. I made it to ANGOLA! Part of the rafting trip was stopping on an island in Angola. I was pretty pumped about that. We saw two crocodiles in the river. That was a bit freaky. One was one four meters long and the other was two meters long. I don't know how to convert that but they were huge! Our instructor even got scared by one of them because as soon as we passed, the crocodile slid right into the water meaning that was easily only a few feet away. Apparently you have to make noise on the water to scare them away so the instructor slapped paddles against the boat to scare him. I paddled a little bit faster to get away from that creature.
I actually got to eat in one or two restaurants which was such a treat because there is only one in town. I was supposed to attend a wedding, but at last minute it got moved to the day before. Wedding dates change often, so I wasn't able to make it. It is wedding season though so I am sure I will make it to one before I leave.
I am leaving tomorrow for a last trip to Swakopmund and then on to Windhoek for our End of Service...so crazy!

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Beatin' the heat (or at least attempting to)

With two weeks left in term, it seems that everyone is a bit restless. I do not know if it is because it is nearing the end of the school year or the heat is getting to everyone’s heads, but this is what has been happening...

~ The teachers seem to have given up on teaching. Day after day, the kids sit alone in their classrooms while the teachers chat in the staffroom or are nowhere to be found.

~ Theft is on the rise. I have now had a watch, a dictionary, and a pair of earrings gone missing. The learners have been stealing each other’s things from the hostels when all year they have been relatively respectful.

~ A few of our girls have “fallen pregnant” by the construction workers in Okalongo. It is devastating to hear of the numerous pregnancies.

~ Learners have given up on school. If they are not rowdy in class, they are sleeping with their heads on their desks. None of them do their homework anymore. This results in me threatening or bribing them. Sometimes they are almost too much to handle.

~ This is probably a crazy assumption, but I think the heat also affects the internet. My internet has become mad unstable! It uses my credit like a mofo.

~ The heat in the afternoon is almost unbearable. I take at least two freezing cold showers a day. If I do not take one right before bed, I won’t fall asleep. Even with the cold showers and the fan blaring, it is hard to sleep at night. On top of it, the mosquitos have returned and they are just straight up annoying.

~ The kids have been plotting revenge against the school. (This is mostly the Grade 12’s and it is their form of a high school prank.) They made a plan to steal the hostel bell and to then throw it in one of the oshanas (a big lake). I thought this was hilarious, but my school did not. They have also been hopping the school fence to sneak out to the shebeens.

~ My colleagues tell me that I have been “missing” these last few weeks, because after school I seek refuge from the heat in my house. The heat literally makes it hard for me to breath. I hate teaching in the afternoons because it really diminishes one’s energy.

~ On top of it all, we lose power at least once a day. A few weeks ago we also lost water. It was so bad we almost had to send the kids home, but thankfully after 3 days it came back.

~ The learners keep frozen water bottles in my freezer or come over to ask for cold cloths to put on their bodies. They have lived here all their lives and they still can’t deal with this weather!

Whoever said Africa is hot as balls, understated the truth!

The First Goodbyes

As my days in Namibia are dwindling down, I have been reflecting alot on my experience here. My blog has nothing to show for the aspirations I had for it. Since I am reaching the end of my time here, I think it will be okay to reveal the truth. Back in term 1, someone from the Ministry of Education found my blog through the internet, through facebook? I am not exactly sure. The first time I met him, he immediately said, “So you are the one who has been complaining” even before exchanging names. I said, “Excuse me?” He then told my Principal about what he had found on the internet and it was strongly suggested that I stop writing my blog or censor it. I asked what in the world I had been complaining about and the answer I received was “curtains.” If you go through my blog the only post that mentions curtains is the first post and I was not necessarily complaining about it, just stating that kids were looking in through my windows. I think writing about it was justified because it was a violation of privacy especially since it was my first week here. Well long story short, that is why I took a hiatus. I was afraid I was going to be fired or something; the Inspector was not all too nice to me. Ironically, in the end, I found out that it was not my blog whom he was referring to but had mistaken it for another volunteer’s in my region. I know in a few years I will probably regret not writing as often as I should have, but no worries I did keep a journal. Soon enough, I will be able to share all of these stories with you in person and will not have to censor at all ;)

At the end of the week, I will have to say my first goodbyes. The Grade 10’s and 12’s will be finished with their exams and will leave school for holiday. Although, I did not teach the Grade 12’s and only taught the 10’s BIS, I am going to miss them. They annoy me most of the time, but I am going to miss the constant questions, the constant favors, and the constant language barriers lol. They really are silly, good-hearted group of kids. They have started asking me for their “unforgettables” a.k.a. things of mine they want. Many of them have already claimed personal items of mine like water bottles, earrings, or photos hanging on my wall. (P.S. I am not in most of the photos on my wall. They are mostly of family and friends sans Bridget, but they do not care they just want photos of Americans. Their fascination with pictures amazes me. Although they have never met you, they will hang that picture proudly on their walls for years to come and tell people that they once knew an American.) I hope, pray, and wish that these kids will pass their exams and continue onto UNam or Polytechnic, but sadly most of them will not. I blame this largely on the education system here.

My colleagues and learners alike have started laying the guilt on thick. They take many approaches to this guilt trip. Some of them like to act sad like they are going to cry and tell me they love me and I can not go because they will miss me too much. Others inform me that my contract is for 2 years, not for one. My learners like to tell me they will fail next year if I do not stay and that everything I have taught them will be lost. They like to tell me that no one in my country will miss me and I have nothing to go back for. Some plot ways to get on the plane with me. This is mostly my colleagues and men in the community who claim they are going to marry me or hide in my suitcases.
I hate goodbyes ;(....

Monday, September 19, 2011

Random Updates!

I was put on a “chicken committee” meaning I got to collect chickens from learners when they returned to school. I had to chop the bottom of the chickens’ wings and tails off with a machete to restrict their flight. I will eventually get to slaughter and de-feather the chickens later this month in preparation of our school bazaar. Apologizes to my vegetarian friends.

I had a roommate for two short months: another American, her name was Zoe. It was extremely comforting to have someone else in the house with me and it was nice her name is harder for the Namibians to pronounce than my own lol.

I gained weight from the fatty goat meat I’ve been eating.

I have learned to make my own bread! An exciting feat.

I had a combined birthday party with 3 other volunteers. An admirer put a $N1,000 bar tab down for me. We had matching birthday shirts made for us. My volunteer friends are now Okalongo celebrities.

I have started a scholarship competition amongst the grade 8, 9, and 11. There will be two winners and their tuitions will be paid in full for next year.

I have started a photography business for the learners, which they love. They even have costume changes in between takes.

I had a few driving lessons (manual and on the other side of the road) eek!

Zoe and I cooked the learners tacos(!) and pizza and they surprisingly loved both (next meal will be chinese food). Coming from a village where lettuce is considered “city” food, tacos was a huge success.

Since Zoe has left, the learners visit me daily because they are afraid that I am lonely. It’s adorable.

I taught a few learners how to play Uno and Kemps, so fun.

I have a gang of small children that visit me multiple times a day looking for ice (popsicles) and schweets (suckers). They can not speak very much English and I can not speak very much Oshiwambo but we are the best of friends.

I was counted in the Namibia 2011 census!

I chaperoned a debate competition (very educational)

I was voted as one of the “Coolest Teachers at Haudano” noted in the Haudano newspaper

I was a guest judge at the Miss Haudano beauty pageant

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Term 3

The blog is back for term 3! I wanted to share some photos with you:
From the left: Himba woman, me (I am now considered an Oshiwambo woman), and a Herero woman in Opuwo

Two of my little friends here; they visit me daily for "schweets" and "ice" aka popsicles

The beautiful Epupa waterfall on holiday #2

Me horseback riding in Lesotho, the Mountain Kingdom

With a Basotho man in Lesotho

Paragliding off Table Mountain in Cape Town, so gorgeous!

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Mid Service Reflection: Improvisation

I had to do a mid service reflection and I thought I would share it with everyone. As mid service approaches I have reflected on the first months I have spent in Namibia. The first word that comes to mind is improvisation. I have mastered the true definition of this word in verb, noun, and adjective form. Improvisation is a creation written or spoken composed extemporaneously or without prior preparation. Key phrase in this definition is “without prior preparation.” Other volunteers who have visited my house know that this is the motto of my household and my life in Namibia. A couple of circumstances come to mind when I think of the improvisation I have done in the past months. Day one at my school: my first time meeting fellow colleagues and future learners. My principal decides I should make a speech in front of the entire school. Now, this was no informal introduction where I tell them my name and where I am from. He wanted a full length introduction about my past, my present, and my future. I do the best I can and try to speak slowly pronouncing every word of my English. Fail. After I stopped speaking there was dead silence and then simultaneously, the entire school: learners, workers, and colleagues alike roared with laughter. One small learner even stood on top of his bench and clapped for me. I was mortified.

When your school tells you that you are going to be the judge for a beauty pageant hours before the event... what do you do? Improvise. I had no idea what I was doing. I had never seen a live beauty pageant, let alone judged one. When your school tells you that you will be speaking at the parents meeting the morning of when no one understands English... what do you do? Improvise. I used the little Oshindonga I knew to introduce myself and then winged it from there. What do you do when your school tells you that you will be presenting at a staff meeting the minute before... Improvise. My school has thrown me a lot of curveballs, but I have learned to just deal with it. Every day in Namibia is a surprise. Not a day goes by that I do not learn something new.

Even if I plan everything out minute by minute in the classroom something always throws the plan off and results in improvisation. Many times, I have been pulled out of class for meetings or to do an errand for another teacher. I have to be quick on my feet to come up with an activity for the learners to do while I am gone. Other times, learners do not grasp the topic at hand and I have to think of a new way to get the point across. I do not have many teaching resources which forces me to be creative in my teaching styles. There are not enough books for every learner and they are not allowed to take them out of the classroom so I have to think of different ways of giving them homework and learning the lesson in groups.

Not only do I improvise in the classroom, I improvise in my house. I live alone so I have been slowly building up my household belongings and utensils. My first week at school I did not have any pans so when I had to cook things in my oven, I used the tops of pots as baking pans. I did not have a spatula so I made my own. I got a piece of cardboard, wrapped foil around it, and stuck a pencil in it. It worked for a while, but not very well. I had to make an indoor clothesline because the line in my backyard only holds about five shirts and two pants. I did not have any string though. I took a piece of ethernet cord left lying around my house, tied one end to a window, and the other end to my closet door. I have formed a bedside table from the packages I have received from home. Cooking has also proved to be a great arena to use improvisation. Namibia does not have many familiar spices so when making food, one improvises with ingredients he or she can find. That is one of the many lessons Namibia has taught me: to be resourceful.

Through all of this, I have learned that my life in Namibia is never going to be planned, not even close to being planned. Life is spontaneous and chaotic. Things happen and plans change. Namibia has taught me to deal with the cards I have been dealt. If all else fails, improvise.

"The Cultural Adjustment Phase"

An important part of the first few months here is cultural adjustment. I have to be open and respectful of the Namibian culture. I am not one to judge; I am here to be immersed in the Namibian lifestyle completely. As a volunteer and an outsider, I have to be conscious of how I am perceived by the people around me whether it is in the community, my learners, or my colleagues. This cultural adjustment has proven to be a two-way street though. These first few months in Namibia have been a mixing and exchanging of two cultures. I learn about the Namibian ways and the people I have met have begun to learn some of my American ways or in some cases my Irish ways. In this post, I would like to fill you in on some of the things I have learned about the Namibian culture and what I have taught the Namibians.
First of all, thanks to my generous aunts, I have received many packages including various types of American candy that my colleagues have now fallen in love with. Here, they call them sweets, but the word “candy” has caught on. There have actually been a couple of arguments in the staff room when a colleague sees I have given someone a sucker and not them. Last week, I gave a demonstration on how to eat FunDip. My learners also appreciate the cookies or biscuits as they are referred to here. I have decided that the Namibians have a different taste bud for sweetness. They think the cookies are “too sweet” and some candies that I think are not sweet at all are too sweet to even to eat. They are not big fans of Starburst because they feel like it coats the throat with sugar. I have started the “what’s up?” trend. When I first greeted people like that they had no idea what I was talking about. Now a few colleagues respond correctly but I still get a lot of “goods.” Some people even say “What’s up?” before I even greet them. A couple of weeks ago, we had a going away party for two colleagues who were leaving the school. It was fun. There was a lot of dancing and then I was pressured to show them an “american dance.” It was the week before St. Patrick’s Day so I told them I would show them an Irish dance. I did a jig for them and they rolled on the floor in laughter. After I was finished, they all mimicked me and tried to copy the dance. To this day, colleagues randomly bust out their imitation of the dance in the staffroom and it brings on howls of laughter. One day on the way to a conference, I experienced a surreal “wow, I’m in Namibia moment.” I was sitting next to the oldest Meme at Haudano in the school bus. I was teaching her how to place solitaire on the iPhone. By the time we arrived at the conference, she had figured the iPhone out and walked around showing off to people. It was a weird moment for me realizing not only the generational difference between the two of us, but also the cultural one. As Americans, we are so focused on technology that we often forget the simplicity of things.
I have also learned a lot about the Namibian superstitions or cultural beliefs. My favorite one I think is about my hair. I was told once that my curly, red hair is equivalent to someone being born with a full mouth of teeth. Meaning that that is how rare my hair is here. If I was born in Namibia with my hair, I would be a queen. One day I was walking with a friend and I was whistling. My friend turned to me and asked me if I knew what that meant in Namibian culture. I said no and asked why. She said in Namibia women are not allowed to whistle. I asked why again. She said because if a woman whistles that means she wants all of her brothers to die so that she can be the man of the household. I have never whistled in public again. They also have many beliefs about animals. I have seen two really cool looking chameleons. They have these crazy feet that change directions when they climb up trees and these eyes that seem like they can move 360 degrees. The first time I saw one I was with three other volunteers and we were really excited about it. We told one of the locals about it and he said in Namibian culture chameleons are not liked. The Namibians do not trust them because they are deceitful animals and can change colors. They change their appearance and deceive people so they can not be trusted. Another animal they despise is snakes. I agree with this one. Snakes are evil creatures and are humans enemies so they must be killed. I was at a shebeen (a bar) once with 2 friends. I saw a small, black snake and did not think anything of it. After a while I pointed it out and said look there’s a snake. I had the entire bar up in arms. Everyone jumped out of their chairs and shouted “where?” One of my friends took a plastic chair and immediately killed it. I found out afterwards that it was in fact poisonous. They also have cultural beliefs about pigs and I have to be honest I do not completely understand this one. Apparently pigs here are sacred. Even though they are smelly and dirty animals, they are very respected. It is said if you have sex in front of a pig, all of your pigs die? I still need to ask more questions about that one.
Another fascinating belief is feet. The first few weeks I was here, I would get compliments on my feet. I did not understand at all so I would be polite and say thank you. I got some many comments that I finally asked why people were complimenting on my feet. I was told that when people compliment me on my feet, they are hitting on me. In a way, they are telling me they want me to be their wife. In pre-colonial Namibia, one way to pick a wife was by her feet. By looking at a woman’s feet, a man would be able to tell what kind of wife a woman was going to be and what kind of profit the man would have. The feet are connected to the success of the couple’s cattle. After learning this I had a friend analyze my feet and why I would be a good wife in traditional Namibia. A woman needed to have small feet which I have. I was told my feet were a good size. I also have a space between my big toe and my second toe. This is unique and a very wifely characteristic to have. The space represents the pastures meaning that the family would have a lot of land for the cows to graze. My feet are not ugly and in proportion meaning that I would be able to deal with the pressures of the family. I was cracking up. It is funny, but it is the culture and I am grateful for the knowledge I have gained.
The staple of Namibian food is mahangu. It is a grain that is made into both food and drink. One food I love is porridge although until recently I did not know the history of it. There are different types of porridge but the primary type of porridge I eat here is mahangu porridge. It is known as pearl millet in the English language. One pounds it in order to make it. It is kind of grainy and at times you feel like you are eating sand. I recently found out that it is in fact sand that I am eating. Mahangu porridge is pounded on a floor covered with termite mounds. This knowledge does not phase me. I still enjoy eating it. The consistency is kind of like mashed potatoes. You do not use utensils. You form it into small balls using your right hand (it is not proper to use both hands). You then dip it into soap (gravy) and eat. The soap and the porridge are my favorite, but you are supposed to eat it with some type of meat, chicken, or fish. Mopani worms are another traditionally Namibian food. I have not tried this and have no interest in eating them. They are basically caterpillars. People love them. They sell them on the streets and can be bought live. I held one once and can not imagine eating them. I have had some of the traditional Namibian drinks. I enjoy oshikundu which is basically a moonshine. It is made with marula juice and then fermented until it is alcoholic. One can drink it as a juice or as an alcoholic beverage. You actually do not what kind you are drinking until after 3 classes. I like it, but I can only drink one glass. It is very vinegary. Another alcoholic drink is Amarula which is made from marula fruit into a creamy liquor that tastes like Kaluha to me.
I am sure I will learn much more as the months go on, but I wanted to fill you in on some of the things I have learned thus far. It is the beginning of our first holiday. Tomorrow, I will be traveling to Windhoek for our midservice training and then will be traveling to South Africa with four friends for the holiday. After South Africa two friends and I will be continuing on to Lesotho, a little country inside South Africa. I will be back in a month and will update you all upon my return :)